the hurt locker

bomb man, moon man

as previously mentioned, i spent july 4th hunkered down at the arclight for a double feature of moon and the hurt locker. i expected to enjoy both and did, but what took me by surprise is the thematic similarities that kept cropping up.

to quote myself, both films are (note: slight spoilers here):

“about loneliness, about rootlessness. about counting down the days until you can go home, except that even when you’re there, you’re not home. it’s about men who need to be far from the women they still desire, about fathers counting down the days until they can hold their children…

“about trying to remain safe in a barren, inhospitable place. it’s about sacrifice, loyalty, courage, trust. about having faith in a mission and falling for a lie. about men showing their love through their fists, bonding through violence, washing away the blood.”

and i forgot to mention the suits (see image, above).

maybe that’s coincidence. maybe i would have found as many parallels between hurt locker and transformers 2. but somehow i doubt it.

the hurt locker follows around the men of bravo company’s explosive ordnance disposal squad in the difficult second year of the iraq war.  staff sgt. james (jeremy renner), sgt. sanborn (anthony mackie) and specialist eldridge (brian geraghty) get word of some suspicious looking car or pile of debris and walk slowly towards it, while everyone else (in uniform or not) runs the other way.

the story begins with the mission prior to james’ arrival. in fact, its tragic outcome creates the opening he fills.  upon his entrance, it’s clear that the story belongs to him. quietly cocky, he is so inured to danger - or addicted to it - that he’s willing to take on calculated risks that more by-the-book soldiers would rather not face. his modest swagger (and the skills to back it up) is a requirement of the job; if you’re insecure and risk-averse, don’t join the bomb squad.

the movie is structured as a series of set pieces, each escalating in intensity - i.e.d.s to car bombs (and worse), snipers to suicide bombers. each sequence is master class in how to shoot complex action and build suspense. there are quite a few directors of blockbuster action movies who ought to study director kathryn bigelow’s work here frame by frame. (christopher nolan and michael bay, please report to detention for extra homework.)

as a longtime fan of bigelow, i particularly appreciated the drinking-and-brawling bonding session back at the barracks. i only hope the studio is able to get her thematically related student film, the set-up, as a special feature on the dvd.

jeremy renner, man on the moon

renner has some excellent character beats that give insight into the psychological costs of the special skills he’s acquired. other scenes are less even, particularly two unsanctioned excursions outside the green zone strain credulity. i doubt the us army offers a highly specialized squad so much autonomy to move around a war zone, or so little tactical support when doing so.

renner, mackie and geraghty are excellent. better known faces - guy pearce, ralph fiennes and david morse - are well used in small but memorable roles. fans of dexter will get a kick of out seeing christian carmargo, season one’s villain, in a more touchy-feely role.  as with moon, the women are most notable by their absence, even one with as much presence as lost’s evangeline lilly.

i can’t remember a war film since full metal jacket that does as good a job depicting the isolation and alienation of war, urban warfare in particular. as james and crew work, iraqi faces pop up on balconies and in storefronts in the distance. are they curious onlookers? or insurgents with remote detonators and camcorders, capturing the big boom on video for youtube?

by design, the hurt locker doesn’t appear to have a political or even polemical agenda. it doesn’t claim that war is good, or bad, or hell, or even necessary. what it wants to say, it says plainly, in big letters up on the screen: “war is a drug.” and addiction has its price.

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man and moon

sam rockwell under glass

i spent independence day camped out at the arclight for a double feature of moon and the hurt locker.

i’d heard moon was a smart, indie sci-fi film starring sam rockwell (and directed by someone who had the amazing good genetic fortune to be david bowie’s son). i have a thing for cerebral, quirky genre flicks (see also: let the right one in, as well as gattaca, soderbergh’s solaris, roman coppola’s cq, gilliam’s 12 monkeys (and progenitor la jetee)  and a bunch of others on my all-time favorite list, going all the way back to college when peter greenaway’s the falls blew my mind. i have yet to fully recover.

bad news first: moon is not in the same league as those works, not that i expected it to be. it is, however, an impressive debut film, technically and artistically, and worth seeing if you enjoy a good science fiction short story. or spending 90 minutes with sam rockwell. (i like both.)

we open on a mining operation on the moon, staffed by exactly one man and one talking, rolling computer. the man, sam bell, is nearing the end of his 3 year stint monitoring the largely automated process that harvests clean, carbon-free “helium-3” energy from the moon’s crust and ships it back to earth. this new energy has saved humanity from scarcity and the scourge of global warming, and sam bell is a hero for dedicating 3 years of his life to helping all mankind.

or maybe not. once the film establishes the rhythm and routine of sam’s lonely life, things start to get weird. sam starts hallucinating. sam gets into an accident. sam gets amnesia. sam has reason to suspect gerty, the robot computer, is hiding something from him. sam comes face to face with the big lie, sam struggles to put the truth back together.

sam in octagon

i don’t want to give away too much as odds are high you haven’t seen moon yet; the story takes an interesting turn that is better left unspoiled. (if you have seen it and want to discuss it more detail, feel free to be spoiler-y in the comments.)

the science is mostly crap (helium-3?) and there are a host of reasons why the predicament sam finds himself in makes little sense - scientifically, economically, logically or even sociologically.

but the plot holes hardly matter - none of it is likely to cross your mind until long after the credits roll. what the director duncan jones does so well is create a profound sense of loneliness, into which he inserts a sympathetic, realistically flawed character who struggles intelligently to make the best of a bad situation. sam rockwell does a masterful job. when was he last less than riveting?

the film looks great - the station is clean and bright but clearly lived-in, in ways that carry more meaning as the movie goes on. for a film set in space, it mostly has its head down, except for one poignant moment when we and sam look at the earth above, enormous and beautiful and completely out of reach.

my biggest complaint with moon is jones’s choice of kevin spacey for the voice of gerty. gerty is a near descendent of 2001’s hal, and i think that spacey’s slightly nasal, untrustworthy deadpan makes the comparison a little too obvious. his baked-in smarminess frequently pulled me right out of the movie.

gerty is happy

i’ve spent the last day contemplating other choices. so far, i think i would have gone with brad dourif or possibly willem defoe. both actors can mix menacing and vulnerable in their voice in a way that i haven’t heard spacey attempt.

(a smaller complaint is the unneeded and unwelcome last 15 seconds of plot resolution; i suspect it came at the insistence of some studio suit with a fear of ambiguity and a fetish for closure.)

moon is a film about loneliness, about rootlessness. about counting down the days until you can go home, except that even when you’re there, you’re not home. it’s about men who need to be far from the women they still desire, about fathers counting down the days until they can hold their children.

it’s about trying to remain safe in a barren, inhospitable place. it’s about sacrifice, loyalty, courage, trust. about having faith in a mission and falling for a lie. about men showing their love through their fists, bonding through violence, washing away the blood.

moon is about all those things. and so is the hurt locker, as i discovered about 3 hours later. it was almost startling to realize how much thematic material the films shared, despite vastly different settings and stories. i’ll follow up with more on kathryn bigelow’s best film since near dark in a few days.

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a tale of two restaurants

what differences does 33 miles make?  not much…or a lot, depending on how you look at it.

jar is one of my go-to restaurants when i want a beautifully cooked slab of protein and i don’t mind paying a bit extra for it. the room is swank, the cocktails are inventive and balanced (well, mostly - the “bug juice” delivers what it promises).

i’ve only had occasion to sample a small portion of owner/chef susan tracht’s menu, but what i’ve had has been memorable. in fact, their salty-sweet, perfectly lacquered char sui pork chop is undoubtedly the best pork chop i’ve ever tasted.

recently, i found myself in long beach. (don’t mock, it could happen to you.) while there, i discovered that tracht has a restaurant there in the renaissance hotel, named after herself.

the menu at tracht’s borrows heavily from jar; i guess if it ain’t broke, etc.  same endive caesar salad, same pot roast, same lemongrass chicken, same purple yams with creme fraiche and chives. and yet…and yet not the same.

i can’t fault tracht for not being able to create the jar’s intimate, wood-paneled vibe (as seen here in hbo’s entourage) in an offshoot of the hotel’s lobby. and i appreciate that dishes tend to run $2-$5 cheaper in long beach.

but it’s one thing to copy the dishes, and quite another to duplicate the care that goes into their preparation. at tracht’s, the pork chop was not bad. maybe even pretty good. but it was far from sublime. compared to it’s jar predecessor, it was noticeably less juicy, less sweet and a bit overdone. 

mmm...steak

and the same was true with more or less everything we ordered. it was all good - damn good, even - for a hotel restaurant. perhaps the difference is in the quality of cooks available in la vs. long beach, most notably preech narkthong, jar’s chef de cuisine.

so if, like me, you find yourself in long beach you could do a lot worse and probably not much better.  but it turns out 33 miles is the distance between a great recipe and a great kitchen.

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image courtesy: triplecreme

as i wrapped up a grueling day watching too many emmy-contending dramas, i received a well-timed text from my friend niki: it was a rare slow night at animal, where she’s a part-time hostess, should i wanted to come by for dinner.

you bet i did.

the restaurant is the creation of jon shook and vinny dotolo, “two dudes” of food network fame. and, like many of my favorite spots, they specialize in seasonal, carefully sourced ingredients, perfectly prepared.  and, as the name suggests, they love their meat, even going so far as to feature bacon in their signature chocolate desert.

they’ve only been open for a few weeks and are still working the kinks out - some artwork on the walls will help bring the sound level down, for example. but judging by my first meal there, the kitchen is already on top of its game.

the menu is always in flux, but if you see the decadent melted petit basque and chorizo appetizer, or the foie gras, biscuit and homemade sausage gravy starter (which i had as a desert), do your self a favor and order it. and by all means talk to manager eric about his interesting and ever-changing wine list.

10-word review:

cheese and pig | fish and pig | chocolate and pig | yum!

(photo lifted from the excellent food blog triplecreme)


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burrata and squash blossoms

let me just get this out of the way: pizzeria mozza has the best gourmet pizza west of franny’s. and if you know me, you know i don’t throw around such praise lightly.

mario batali’s italian know-how plus nancy silverton’s mastery of all things bread yield up a pizza that’s truly worth a one-month advance reservation.

the perfectly composed pizzas are the stars of the show - homemade fennel sausage with red onions and scallions, squash blossoms and burrata, guanciale and bagna cauda with egg - but don’t overlook the beautiful antipasti or the to-die-for desserts. the butterscotch budino has earned a reputation as one of the best in town, but i’m just as fond of the olive oil gelati, almost as good as the original at otto.

pizzeria mozza was designed as the casual counterpart to its somewhat swankier sibling, osteria mozza. while both are must-eat for any serious la foodie, the brooklyn boy in me appreciates neighborhood-y feel of the pizzeria.  (a vibe only slightly diminished by the long wait, nightly celebrity spottings and an $8 valet…)

ten word review:

casually brilliant | pizza perfected | worth the wait | don’t skip dessert

(photo courtesy jslander, via flickr)


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LA Mill Coffee, from tonx via flickr

a few months back, i raved about my favorite coffee place.  and while it still brews the best java in town, hands down, if you want a bite with that drink, let me steer you instead to la mill coffee.

throw out everything you think you know about coffee bars.  starbucks this ain’t. in fact, it helps to think of la mill as a restaurant in love with coffee, rather than a java shop backed up by a few outsourced pastries.

the surprising, playful menu comes courtesy chef michael cimarusti of providence, and it’s anything but an afterthought.  eye-opening sandwiches like the pork belly asian “blt.”  delicately scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and asparagus. and desserts so fabulous they had to offer a dessert tasting menu (courtesy of adrian vasquez, also of providence).

of course, you may not even make it to the food menu if you pick up the even heftier drink menu first.  dozens of artisanal coffees (and teas), each available by the cup or by the pot, fresh brewed in variety of ways each more arcane than the next.  and don’t neglect the specialty drinks, like their (virgin) green tea mojito or “coffee and a jelly donut,” topped with donut infused milk.

clearly, the mad geniuses here are having fun. if you can enjoy serious food that doesn’t take itself too seriously, you will too.

ten word review:

infinite, excellent coffee | even better food | dessert best of all

(photo courtesy tonx, via flickr)


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regarding henry (jones, jr.)

welcome back, indy 

memo to the vast army of indiana jones 4 haters:  

(a) you’re not 12 years old anymore, so of course you’re not going to enjoy it as much. get over yourself.
(b) the ’50s-style lighting alone is worth the price of admission.
(c) the return of karen allen is awesome beyond words. anybody other than spielberg, and the studio would have pushed for catherine zeta jones.
(d) it’s the fourth movie in a series.  it stacks up pretty good alongside other part 4s (star wars: the phantom menace, police academy 4, um…hellraiser 4? what else am i forgetting?)
(e) the last crusade isn’t really as good as you remember it, and temple of doom had its share of cheesy moments too. 
(f) i like ike.

ok, so i wouldn’t have cast shia labeouf either.  but at least he’s got more charm than hayden christensen.

prediction: this one’s reputation will improve over time.

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here’s how i think this works:  you open a restaurant called ‘breadbar.’ you bake great bread (mmm, cherry bread) upon which you construct tasty sandwiches. you see a good lunch crowd, but maybe things are a little slow at night.   so what do you do to fill seats after dark?  you bring in a star guest chef and pack in the foodies in search of the next big taste.  last year, it was ludovic lefevbre’s ‘ludobar.’  this year, it’s ‘crudobar,’ masterminded by noriyuki sugie, late of asiate in new york. 

chef sugie has assembled an inventive, mostly successful menu of raw and japanese-inspired small dishes.  definitely try the mirugai seviche, the white chocolate risotto and, with apologies to jonathan gold, the perfectly cooked black cod “slider.”  take advantage of the two-ounce pours of saki and wine for perfect pairings. 

originally scheduled to end may 15, crudobar has been extended six nights a week until july 15.  

10 word review:  fresh, clever, tasty | best mall food west of per se | hurry


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strip mall cuisine at its finest

spend any time eating your way through l.a. and you’ll quickly discover that some of your best meals are found in strip malls.  

does this happen anywhere else in the world?  is there a world-class eatery in paris or san francisco lodged in a mini-mall between a donut shop and a dry cleaner?  i think not.

my favorite strip mall spot is undoubtedly lou.  i could rave about the well-curated, ever-changing list of wines by the glass.  i could gush about their cheese and charcuterie, second in my heart only to cube.  but the dish that keeps bringing me back is the salty, sweet porky goodness that we call pig candy.

10 word review:

dark yet inviting | seasonal | artisanal | divine | la’s best wine bar


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mmm...smokey

news flash: the best pastrami in america (and probably the world) is not in new york.   

this is no idle claim.  i’ve eaten the best new york has to offer: katz’s, carnegie, stage, 2nd avenue.  mill basin in brooklyn.  pastrami king of queens.

langer’s puts them all to shame.  and for my fellow los angelinos, yes, it makes canter’s seem like ralph’s.

(though not everything on langer’s menu is spectacular - avoid the knishes at all costs.) 

10 word review:

smokey | peppery | tender | hand-sliced | glistening | sandwich of the gods


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